No Internet Connection? How to Troubleshoot Internet Issues

Troubleshooting finicky internet can be as simple as restarting your equipment. Heck, sometimes you can get back up to speed just by tightening the coaxial cable on a cable modem. Got fiber internet? Make sure your Ethernet cable is nice and snug in the optical network terminal.

We’ll always tell you to reboot your home network first before you dive deep into troubleshooting waters. If a reboot doesn’t work, we have tons of suggestions to help you drill down and weed out the pesky gremlins that are causing your internet speed woes.

If you’re not getting an internet connection, check your internet equipment before you troubleshoot anything else. Your fiber optical network terminal (ONT), modem, or gateway provides LEDs letting you know the status of your internet (wide area network, or WAN) and home network (local area network, or LAN) connections.

Fiber internet

Here’s an example of LEDs to look for if you have fiber internet and an ONT:

The Power LED is your starting point. If the ONT is off or having startup issues, you can’t connect to the internet. Likewise, if the PON light is off and the Alarm LED is red, you also can’t connect.

However, the Data LED is specific to your home network, so if the LED is off, check the Ethernet cable or the router.

Cable and DSL modems and gateways have a completely different set of LEDs. For example, there are six status LEDs on the NETGEAR Nighthawk CM3000. Take a look:

In this case, the Power, Downstream, Upstream, and Online LEDs indicate the status of your internet connection. Again, if there’s no power or the modem is overheating, you won’t have an internet connection.

The Multi Gen Port is your router’s connection to the modem, while the Eth1 and Eth2 LEDs show the status of link aggregation if you’re using that instead of the Multi Gen Port. If any of these lights indicate an issue, you’re having home network problems, not internet ones.

That all said, choose a path:

• Your internet equipment is experiencing technical issues: Home network troubleshooting
• Your internet equipment is fine: Check the LEDs on your router or mesh system

Standalone routers provide status LEDs, but you don’t need to understand them all to check your internet connection. For example, the ASUS RT-BE96U router we reviewed has eight status LEDs. Take a look:

You should check the Power LED first. After that, make sure the WAN LED isn’t red. If both are good, check to see if the Wi-Fi LEDs are lit and active.

Meanwhile, mesh systems only have one LED that changes color based on the unit’s status, whether it’s designated as the router or the satellite. Here are the LED colors used with the ASUS ZenWiFi BQ16 Pro system:

As you can see, the LED on every mesh node will burn red if there’s no internet connection detected.

So, if the Wi-Fi light(s) are off or red, your router isn’t broadcasting a signal.

Now, choose a path:

• Your router or mesh system is experiencing technical issues: Home network troubleshooting
• Your router or mesh system LEDs are fine: Wi-Fi troubleshooting
• Your devices can’t connect: Device troubleshooting

Home network fixes

This section provides a handful of fixes if your internet equipment shows a faulty or no internet connection. A bad connection between your modem and router can also cause connection issues.

Restart your ONT, modem, or gateway

Step 1: Unplug the ONT, modem, or gateway from power.

Step 2: Wait 30 seconds.

Step 3: Reconnect the device to power.

Step 4: Wait for the device to reboot and get online.

Check your wires and cables

Wires and cables often become loose or damaged from repeated tension stress. Do the following to ensure a good connection:

• Fiber internet: Make sure the fiber SPDIF module is snug in the PON port on your ONT.
• Cable internet: Make sure the coaxial cable is super-tight on the modem’s threaded F-type connector.
• DSL internet: Make sure the line’s RJ11 connector snaps into place and is snug in the modem’s port.
• All ONTs and modems: Make sure the Ethernet connector snaps into place and is snug in the Ethernet port (for the cord connecting your router or mesh system).

Also, check for damage. See if the cable looks torn or perhaps chewed by a pet. Ethernet and phone cables are especially prone to damage, as the copper wires inside are very thin.

If your internet equipment and cables check out, the next step is to see what’s going on with your router or mesh system. The WAN light (usually designated with a globe) on a standalone router or the single LED on a mesh node will burn red if these devices aren’t assigned a public IP address from your internet provider.

Why does this happen? It could be a number of things:

• Something is happening on your provider’s network
• The Ethernet cable connected to your ONT, modem, or gateway WAN port is bad
• A device on your network is causing an IP address conflict

Like with the internet equipment, do the following to try to resolve your router issue.

Step 1: Unplug the router from power.

Step 2: Wait 30 seconds.

Step 3: Reconnect the router to power.

Step 4: Wait for the router to reboot and get online.

Try a different Ethernet cable

Ethernet cables can go bad over time, especially if the parent devices are constantly moved, like when you shift the modem to dust around it each week. A faulty cable will reduce your speeds or stop working altogether. Damaged connectors reduce your speeds, too, as well as cuts, bites, and other signs of wear and tear.

The Ethernet cable connecting your modem or ONT to your router or mesh system is a vital part of your internet connection. Swap it out, and swap out other Ethernet cables you believe may be slowing down the internet for your wired devices.

Here we’re mostly thinking about the firmware in your gateway, router, or mesh system—maybe your modem, too, if you purchased one of your own. Manufacturers distribute updates to fill security holes, add features, squash bugs, and optimize performance. Problematic firmware in a modem, for example, could slow your internet speeds.

Also, the client devices you use to access the internet, like smartphones and laptops, should be up-to-date as well.

• Update the firmware or operating system: Never fall behind on updates. Sure, some can be problematic on Windows, but overall, they’re designed to keep you safe and your device performing optimally.
• Update drivers: Be sure the network drivers are current, too, as manufacturers—whether it’s the brand (HP, Dell, Lenovo, etc.) or the network component maker (Intel, Realtek, etc.)—frequently release optimized drivers.

Obviously, you’ll need internet access to update your OS, system firmware, and network software. To do so, you may need to use your mobile phone as a Wi-Fi hotspot, seek out a public Wi-Fi hotspot, or hop on a friend or family member’s internet connection.

Wi-Fi fixes

If your internet connection checks out but your Wi-Fi still feels slower than pouring molasses, let’s see if a few simple Wi-Fi changes can improve your speed.

Reposition your router/gateway

Where you should place your router or mesh system depends squarely on your internet connection. So, if your cable modem sits by the front door but you want the router in the TV room, you’ll need (1) a home wired with Ethernet or (2) a very long Ethernet cable you must string along the floorboards. There’s no way to relocate a router without some work on your part or without asking your internet provider to relocate your internet connection.

Even if you can’t move your router, be sure it’s elevated and away from obstructions if possible, like bookshelves and corners. Keep it away from “noisy” electronics, too, like microwaves.

Wi-Fi can easily pass through wood and drywall, but tile, metal, concrete, and especially water are known to interfere with Wi-Fi signals. Microwaves, baby monitors, and cordless phones are also Wi-Fi killers when they’re running.

See our article on where to place your router to learn more about finding that perfect spot for your Wi-Fi machine.

Check the signal level (Wi-Fi only)

Gateways, routers, and mesh systems broadcast at a specific signal strength out of the box. You shouldn’t need to dig into the interface to make adjustments. However, if you feel that some weird glitch has lowered the transmit power strength and created junk Wi-Fi speeds in areas that are typically fast, go into the web interface and check the settings for each band.

For example, a recent ASUS mesh system we tested provides a slider with Performance (default), Good, Balance, Fair, and Power Saving settings. In other cases, you may see numbers you can select. Here are the ideal transmit power settings for each band:

• 4 GHz: 15–20 dBm
• 5 GHz: 17–30 dBm
• 6 GHz: 20–30 dBm

Consult our guide on how to log in to your router if you need help accessing the web interface.

Use a different Wi-Fi channel

Saying “switch the channel” is an old-school suggestion from when the 2.4 GHz band was our primary Wi-Fi connection, but it still has some merit.

Routers combine two, eight, 16, and 32 single channels to make super-wide ones, depending on the set width. So, selecting channel 36 in your router won’t improve your speed if your neighbors use channels 40, 42, and 48. All four are bonded to make one channel 80 MHz wide, so you’re all still in the same space. Not fun.

To assess the best channel group for your home, you’ll need to use a Wi-Fi channel analyzer. There are many free Android apps (iOS doesn’t allow it, unfortunately) that can do this. The channel analyzer will tell you what channels are being heavily used.

We talk more about channel widths in our guide to increasing your internet speed using your router’s Wi-Fi channels. Don’t know how to log into your router? See our article on how to log in to your router if you need help.

Reset your equipment to factory settings

If you’ve tried everything else to no avail, it may be time to reset your store-bought router or gateway to its factory settings—never ever factory reset equipment owned by your internet provider.

This step is significant because it will restore the firmware to its original out-of-the-box state. The reset will erase your administration login settings, your Wi-Fi network(s), and anything else you customized since the day you set up your home network.

Of course, getting everything back up and running again will take a chunk of time out of your day, so this is worth trying only if you have no other options.

Consult our guide on how to factory reset your router to get started.

Device fixes

Okay, so what if your internet equipment and home network are running smoothly, but at least one device is acting like a snail in a horse race? Let’s dive into specific device fixes to get them up to speed.

Before we begin

Not every client device and access point works well together, based on our tests. One phone may see blazing speeds while a similar one on the same connection may see half the speed. Remember, Wi-Fi is a two-way conversation between your device and the access point, and their radios may not be 100% compatible. There’s nothing you can do about it, either, except tolerate the slower speeds or use a different device.

Switch Wi-Fi bands

Your router transmits Wi-Fi over at least two frequency bands: 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. Most setups now combine all connections under one network name by default, so your smartphone could be secretly using the slower 2.4 GHz band when you really need a faster connection.

There are two workarounds to ensure you’re using the connection you want. First, you can disable Smart Connect (aka band steering) and assign a separate network name and password for each connection. Alternatively, you can go into the router’s settings and set your device’s preferred connection (if the setting is available, that is).

Run your computer’s internet troubleshooter

Something may be amiss within your computer’s operating system. Both Mac and PC computers have troubleshooters built into their OS that can solve the problem for you.

Windows

Step 1: Right-click on the network icon in the System Tray.

Step 2: Select Diagnose network problems.

Step 3: Select options to run a test, restart the network adapter, and restart your PC.

MacOS

To run the Wireless Diagnostics, do the following:

Step 1: Hold the Option key and select the Wi-Fi icon on your screen.

Step 2: Select Open Wireless Diagnostics.

Alternatively, you can reboot your Mac and run Apple Diagnostics. The following instructions are based on Macs with Apple Silicon.

Step 1: Press and hold the Power button.

Step 2: Release the Power button when Options appear on the screen.

Step 3: Press and hold the Command and D keys until the Mac restarts.

Connect with an Ethernet cable

This isn’t a fix but rather a solution to get you around any Wi-Fi shenanigans your Ethernet-capable device may be experiencing. If you can get online via Ethernet but not with Wi-Fi, then there’s definitely something going on with the latter.

Make sure you have a working IP address

Your internet provider assigns a public-facing IP address to your gateway, router, or the “router” unit in your mesh system. In turn, they assign a private IP address to each device connected to the home network.

If one device can’t get online, chances are the gateway, router, or mesh router assigned the same IP address to multiple devices (it happens). Every device needs a unique local IP address for the network to function, so if there are two devices with the same address, one of them can’t access the network or the internet.

See our instructions on how to find your IP addresses on computers and mobile devices.

Check your antivirus software

Your antivirus software is a major barrier between your device and the internet. The possibility of an issue here is often worth exploring after exhausting the likely causes.

First, make sure your antivirus software is current. The developer may have distributed an update that fixes issues related to internet connectivity.

If you updated the software and still think it’s causing internet slowdowns on your device, shut down the software temporarily to see if your internet speed improves.

If you see faster speeds, find a different antivirus client. If not, the software isn’t your problem.

Clear your DNS cache

The DNS cache is a digital log your browser uses as a shortcut to quickly load web pages you’ve visited before. But your cache can create technical issues if there’s a glitch or if online malware has inserted uninvited URLs into your cache.

Check out our guide on how to fix DNS problems by clearing the cache on a device and browser level.

Scan for viruses and malware

Run a scan to see if malware or a virus is on your device. Malicious programs can use up a lot of your bandwidth or block your internet connection entirely. McAfee, Norton, and Bitdefender all make quality antivirus software.

Reset your computer’s network settings

Resetting your computer’s network settings changes everything back to its defaults. It’s not the most convenient option, but it could be the fix you need to start from scratch and erase the Wi-Fi bugs once and for all.

Keep in mind that this isn’t like turning off the computer and turning it back on. In the same way that resetting your router restores that equipment to factory settings, restoring your network totally wipes out your computer’s Wi-Fi settings, bringing it back to how it was when you were just setting it up for the first time.

Your computer will forget your network settings, including your Wi-Fi network’s name, passwords, and VPN settings. Do this only as a last resort. Make sure you save your passwords and other necessary info before doing the reset.

How to reset your Wi-Fi network on Mac

Step 1: Click to Apple menu > System Preferences > Network.

Step 2: Click on Wi-Fi in the drop-down menu on the left of the screen.

Step 3: Press the Minus (-) button to remove it.

Step 4: Press Plus (+) button to re-add it.

Step 5: Select Wi-Fi in the Interface options.

Step 6: Select Apply and close out of the Network settings.

How to reset your Wi-Fi network on Windows

Step 1: Click to Settings > Network & internet > Advanced network settings.

Step 2: Select the Network reset.

Step 3: Select the Reset now button to confirm.

Step 4: Select Yes to confirm once again.

Step 5: Restart your computer and follow the prompts for Windows to guide you through setting up your new home network.

Upgrade your equipment

Outdated equipment and devices can cause internet slowdowns or no connection at all. You should have the latest ONT, modem, or gateway if you lease equipment from your internet provider. Your leased router or mesh system may also be mostly current.

Purchased internet equipment is a different story—you’re responsible for upgrades. So, if you have sparkly new Wi-Fi 7 devices connected to a Wi-Fi 5 router, you won’t see supersonic speeds using those devices. On the flip side, if you installed a new Wi-Fi 7 router but still rock the original iPhone, the router upgrade won’t magically increase the dinosaur’s Wi-Fi connection.

Want 2Gbps cable internet? You need to replace that old DOCSIS 3.0 modem.

Here are the latest standards:

Now, here’s how to check the wireless standard of your devices:

Mac

Step 1: Hold down the Option button while clicking on the Apple icon in the top left of the screen.

Step 2: Select System Information in the drop-down menu.

Step 3: Select Wi-Fi under Network on the left.

Step 4: Find the version listed next to Supported PHY Modes.

Windows

Step 1: Right-click on the Start button.

Step 2:  Select Device Manager on the Power User Menu.

Step 3: Expand Network Adapters to see the wireless adapter. It may read “Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX201 160 MHz” or similar.

iPhone and iPad

There’s no on-device setting that reveals the Wi-Fi version your device supports. Instead, you can use a shortcut to see what version your Wi-Fi network uses—which isn’t the info you need.

However, you can visit Apple’s Wi-Fi and Ethernet specifications page to get the exact version your Apple mobile device supports

Android

Android devices also do not display the exact version of Wi-Fi they support. Instead, you only see the version used by the Wi-fi network.

You can find the Wi-Fi version your Android device uses by visiting the manufacturer’s website. Google lists the hardware specs of all Pixel phones on a single page, while Samsung does not.

Purge your Wi-Fi network

Many of us overlook the sheer number of devices we now have accessing the internet. All the “active” and “passive” devices add up and chip away at the bandwidth you pay for each month. The combined army also uses your gateway or router as Grand Central Station, so congestion is unavoidable, especially when everyone in the house is trying to watch the latest season of Stranger Things on their devices.

A good way to reduce the load on your home network and internet connection is to purge devices that don’t need to access the internet, like the old laptop you’ve been meaning to ditch but still leeches from your Wi-Fi.

To find out what’s on your network, log in to the web interface or app provided by your gateway, router, or mesh system. You’ll see a list of devices on the network map that are online and offline, many of which may look unfamiliar. Don’t fret—that doesn’t mean you’ve been hacked. You’re seeing default names pulled by the Wi-Fi or Ethernet chip—names you should manually change to something more familiar. Creating profiles and adding devices to those profiles also helps give you a roadmap of who uses what.

Once you get familiarized with all the devices with access to your home network, block the ones that don’t belong on the network or currently don’t need internet access. You can also change the Wi-Fi password so they can’t get back on.